Master the Art of Punchwork

Wendy Schoen's Punchwork Baby Bonnet

Punchwork is both a pulled-thread stitch and a counted-thread stitch. It is an exercise in creating degrees of whitework. Surface embroidery stitches add interest with shadows and shine, while pulled thread stitches add open areas and shading.

In the how-to below, designer Wendy Schoen will show you how to stitch this elegant technique. The tutorial first appeared in our May/June 2008 issue of Sew Beautiful.

Overview of Punchwork:
Punch stitch is sometimes known as drawn fabric stitch and must not be confused with drawn-thread work, as the threads are not withdrawn. It is more quickly done than drawn-thread work and can be worked in small spaces. Punchwork is sometimes more commonly referred to as "Fil Tiré," which literally translates to "pulled thread." 

A loosely woven linen should be used, as the threads are easily counted and pull together with ease. A linen thread is used in the coarser work and fine cotton on fine linen or linen lawn. When working the stitch, a tapestry needle is used so it will easily slide between the fabric threads without nipping the sides. The size of the needle is determined by the weave of the fabric. The looser the weave, the larger the needle.

The shape of the design is first outlined by the surface embroidery. This surface stitching provides a boundary or outline for the pulled thread area. Creating a boundary is critical, as it defines the edges and provides a place for tying off and traveling to the next row without the carry threads being noticed. 

Once the surface embroidery is complete, the punchwork stitching fills in the fabric between the outlines. These areas are "punched" with holes, simply by pushing the thread apart at equal distances in straight lines, piercing about every third thread - the number depending on the coarseness of the fabric. There is no compensation for very thin or very thick fabric threads, as they are counted as usual. The work is done from right to left and left to right alternately. Start at the widest width inside the design area, working the first horizontal row across the entire width inside the boundary.


Tool Tips:
• I recommend a #28 tapestry, the smallest size available. 

• Thread choices are critical. Only 100 percent cotton thread should be use for pulled thread. The embroidery design here is worked with Floche embroidery cotton. Shadowwork is just lovely when worked with Floche.

• I suggest at least a 70wt thread such as YLI's Heirloom Cotton Thread.

• Try applying beeswax for added stability. For working the grid, a thimble will enable you to stitch with the eye of the needle, therefore increasing your stitching speed a great deal.

• Always use one strand and the #7 between needle for the best results. Surface embroidery may be worked with a #10 sharps needle, if you prefer.

• Do not attempt this stitch without appropriate magnification.


Instructions:
The difficulty of this stitch is defined by the first row of stitches. After the first row is established, all others can be easily rendered. The hands-free hoop is invaluable, as the stitching is predetermined by the grid, and the hoop makes it is easy to stitch with the non-dominant hand. With this hoop, the grid can be worked at lightning speed.

Complete the shadowwork first, then stitch all the other embroidery stitches (surface embroidery) before beginning the pulled-thread work.

Step 1: To tie on, anchor waste knot in such a position that the thread tail can be worked over. Working over three fabric threads, sew a backstitch from A to B.

Step 1

Step 2: To work the next stitch, sew into A, but angle needle to emerge three threads over (A to C). Pull stitch tightly.

Step 2

Step 3: Continue working entire row, using sequence of A to B, A to C. Move to next row by taking a backstitch through six threads (three threads below first row) from top of first row to bottom of second row.

Step 3

Step 4: Begin with the A to B sequence, pulling tightly on every stitch.

Step 4

Step 5: To continue to next stitch, sew A to C, which is three threads over.

Step 5

Step 6: Complete entire grid working the same rows, each three threads down.

Step 6

Step 7: Rotate grid one turn so opposing rows can be stitched in the same manner. Beginning in the upper edge, stitch A to B, using the established holes.

Step 7

Step 8: Stitch A to C to move to next square.

Step 8

Step 9: Complete row and move to next row down, using the established holes for A-B points.

Step 9

Step 10: Completed fil tiré grid. You may tie off in the boundary area along the sides or by tying a slip-knot through two openings on back.

Step 10

For more technique and project tutorials, check out our newly released Sew Beautiful 2008 Collection. Available in both CD and digital download format, this collection features full-sized electronic versions of all six issues of Sew Beautiful from 2008 and includes printable patterns, tips and techniques, how-to articles and more.

Sew On, Sew Well, Sew Beautiful, 
Kathy and Amelia

Flip-Flop Ribbon Trim

Cute, cute, cute... I'm in love with Kathy B's cool flip-flop ribbon trim. It's perfect for adding a fun touch of grosgrain ribbon to a casual summer dress made with fun prints, like this halter-style from our Summer Separates pattern:

With spring and summer quickly approaching, it's time to start thinking about adding some easy, breezy summer outfits to your little ones' wardrobes. Sewing garments yourself is fun enough straight from the patterns themselves, but adding special creative details and really makes it worth your while. For even the beginning seamstress, figuring out how to use what you know about sewing to add details to your pieces is lots of fun.

Ribbons are one of our favorite notions around here (as evidenced by our themed ribbon issue, #129), and the flip-flop ribbon trim that Kathy came up with last summer is just too cute. At the time Issue #125 was published, where we announced the new Summer Separates pattern, we offered free instructions on the flip-flop ribbon trim on our website (click here to download the instructions in PDF format). But since we recently received the new DVD collection of last season's Martha's Sewing Room, we've pulled video for you of Kathy herself teaching the technique. We hope that, combined with the printed instructions, the video helps make sense of creating this great trim on your own.

After we shared the flip-flop ribbon trim instructions on our website, SB reader Elizabeth Vickers shared a dress with us using this technique that she made for her granddaughter. I've been holding onto the photo Elizabeth sent me for six months, and finally, I have the perfect opportunity to share it with all of you:

It looks like Elizabeth has used a wider width of grosgrain ribbon in different colors to add a fun accent between her solid red fabric and multicolor polka dot fabric on the hem and sleeves.

Do you have ideas for using this technique in other ways? I wonder if it wouldn't work to use a thin-width of silk satin ribbon to make a tiny flip-flop trim; I might try it. If you do try this technique, please share it by posting a link below or sending pictures to us at blog@sewbeautifulmag.com. As always, we love to see what you're making!

Kathy and Amelia's Threads Magazine Debut

We are so excited to announce Kathy and Amelia's debut in Threads Magazine! Check out page 74 of the April/May 2010 issue to see their Master Class article on Mirror-Image Appliqué. As soon as our copy arrived the other day, we started looking over the issue page-by-page; here is a picture of Kathy and me, Shannon, reading over the cover (please ignore my messy desk)...

 ...but let's be honest, this picture is more like it! Can you hear the squeals of excitement?!

The article itself was a true joint effort between Kathy Barnard (SB Editor) and Amelia Johanson (SB Associate Editor). Judith Neukam, Threads Sr. Technical Editor, called Kathy last year and said she was watching Martha’s Sewing Room one night when the Mirror Image Madeira method with the wash-away thread was demonstrated. Judith wanted to know if someone from Sew Beautiful would be willing to write for their Master Class segment in Threads using this technique, but based on a non-heirloom, styled design. Amelia and Kathy love fashion sewing so much that they decided to assign themselves the project! Kathy designed the featured dress and prepared the instructional step-out photography, while Amelia stitched it up; they both wrote the instructions together.

Kathy says, "We hope we get to do another article for Threads sometime. Now I know what it is like to be excited about having an article in another magazine. It’s easy for me to publish a design or an article in SB because I am the editor, but when someone else chooses you, it becomes a real honor!"

If you don't already have a subscription to Threads, please run out and pick up a copy to see Kathy and Amelia's article! We hope you enjoy it, as well of the rest of their great April/May issue, and thanks again to Threads for the opportunity - we are honored.